Ferries to Zanzibar to Stone Town

The best way to travel from mainland Tanzania to Zanzibar for most tourists is by high speed ferry. It is a part of the African adventure to enter Zanzibar by sea. The view of Stone Town as you arrive is quite breathtaking with the Old Fort and the majestic House of Wonders dominating the palm fringed coast.

 

Ferries leave regularly from Dar es Salaam. The first leaves at 7h30 with the last ferries leaving at around 15h00 – information correct at the time of writing. The ferry it takes ninety minutes and the port on the mainland and Zanzibar are in the heart of the city and therefore easily accessible in Dar es Salaam and in Stone Town. Whereas to fly may only take twenty minutes but you have the hassle of two out of town airports – and Dar airport is just not nice.

 

The ticket buying and the actual boarding of the ferry is the first step to Zanzibar. The ticket offices are all housed in a concrete block next to the departure gate – the ticket touts will approach you en mass. There are several companies here all in opposition with one another – the touts are paid commission for each and every tourist they get to buy a ticket. Remember there is fierce competition and each tout is a person trying to provide for his family, so expect to be harassed.

 

As with anywhere in the world where there are tourists and crowds there will be pick-pockets. Keep passports, mobiles and money safely locked away. One way tickets cost around USD$35 for tourist class and USD$40 for first class. For only five dollars extra first class is the better option. These prices are based on Azam Marine ferries – if you elect to use another company then bargain as you will get a cheaper price.

 

I would recommend Azam for a number of reasons; the principle reasons being professionalism of staff and their high speed ferries are newer, cleaner and safer. Azam also has a departure lounge (set away from the ticket offices) close to the departure gate. It is new, clean and comfortable and often they give away sodas and snacks to their customers – at 7.00 am it is possible to have hot snacks. Tickets can be purchased from this departure lounge.

 

I would recommend you buy your ticket in advance if possible – especially in high season as the ferries can sometimes get full. In low season (March to end of May) you are safe to buy a ticket just before departure.

 

All ferry companies claim to have the fastest ferries – Azam are the fastest – even if they are the last to leave port the Azam ferry will be the first to arrive in Zanzibar. You can also now book online with Azam Ferries.

 

Once you have a ticket and the time for departure is near proceed to the departure gate – which is literally a huge wire gate. It is not a time to be shy, at busy times there will be crowds. You may have to push a little remembering not to be rude but be firm.

 

You must have your ticket ready to show security at the gate.

 

Follow the crowd down and along the path to the gate at the quayside. Again it is a must to wait with an ever growing crown behind you. Any desire for personal space must be abandoned here. There may be several ferries arriving from and departing for Zanzibar at the same time. There will be lots of people and, as is the nature of ports, there will be lots of trade and lots of baggage and in Dar it will be hot and humid.

 

If you start your wait close to the quayside gate you may find by the time it gets to boarding you have somehow ended up at the back. If you want a good seat on the deck it is imperative you are near the front of the queue. Let’s face it: if you are a tourist you want a good seat with a good view!

Again this is where your guide's experience comes in. Your guide will be close to the front of the queue; if not, get a new guide. It is a good idea to hang onto your guide to remain at the front. More practically if you are not panicked by the thought of being left alone, get your guide to push his way onboard and you may take your time arriving, relaxed in the knowledge you have a reserved seat. This way you can be the polite tourist and not the rude one biting, scratching and kicking your way to a good seat.

 

Once the gates are open the great push begins to get through the narrow gate. There will be lots of pushing and the security on the gate will be shouting. Just ignore everything and smile with outstretched arm and gently wave your ticket making eye contact with the security validating the tickets.

 

Once passed this hurdle the next is to get to your ferry, ensure you know which ferry is yours. At this point people run to get to the ferry and their seats. You want a good seat so you must run too.

 

Once on the ferry make your way to your preferred seat. The sun decks are the most popular. However, if the sun shines make sure you have a hat and long sleeves just in case the sun starts to burn. If the sea is in the slightest bit choppy you could also get very wet sitting at the rear of the sun deck.

 

Once you arrive in Zanzibar you must go through immigration. You have to have an entry stamp. It isn’t a long process but it is necessary. Again there is a panic through immigration with the end in sight and a great eagerness to get into Stone Town – it is all feels a little manic – at the immigration office order is restored and it is best to queue. There is nothing to pay for the stamp as you will already have a tourist visa in your passport. On your return you must also get an exit stamp – resist the temptation not to bother as if you are stopped it will cause unnecessary hassle. The ferry staff will check your ticket for a stamp from immigration, if there is no stamp you may be sent back to immigration. Once back on the mainland there is no need for anymore stamps and you simply walk out of the port.

 

The Spice Islands of Zanzibar refers to an archipelago of fifty or so islands with Unquia and then Pemba being the largest. The main island is always – in my experience – referred to simply as Zanzibar. Enjoy Zanzibar; it is a very special place. The adventure of getting there is part of the holiday too so enjoy it.

 

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